Primrose

Primrose, Primula

A sweet sign of spring, wild primroses are an early bloomer in meadows, along streams and in rocky crevices. The collector’s varieties also herald spring, though they are often lined up in terracotta pots in a protected spot where their jewel tones can be enjoyed up close. Then there are the many garden species and hybrids, suitable for borders, bedding, containers and naturalizing. The Primrose family has over 20 genera, including cyclamen and shooting star, Dodecatheon, and loostrife, Lysimachia. The genus Primula has around 400 species, some found on nearly every continent. These have a great diversity of flower forms and colors, including white, pink, orange, red, purple and striped. They are easily recognized by their basal rosette of leaves and five petaled flowers which are sometimes partialy or compleatly fused.

Primroses need well-drained, moist, fertile soil. Most types do best in partial shade, though in cool climates some can take full sun. Primrose hardiness varies from zone 3 to 10.

Water primroses in the summer months, taking care not to let them dry out. A soil with lots of organic matter will help with moisture retention, as well as improving drainage and contributing nutrients. Mulch around plants with leaf mold, compost or bark dust. In the winter primroses cannot stand in waterlogged soil.

Remove flower heads after blooming unless you plan to collect seeds. Take seeds as soon as they ripen in summer or early fall and sow them in a cold frame or sheltered spot in the garden. Keep the soil moist and move plants to their permanent location the following season.

Primroses can be attacked by slugs and snails. Set out non-toxic slug bait or use copper strips around beds. Crown and root rot are problems that can be prevented by adequate drainage. Red spider mites and aphids can affect stressed plants. Treat with a neem oil spray mixed with a bit of insecticidal soap. These insect pests can spread bacterial and fungal diseases, so they are best treated for as soon as discovered. Also avoid fungal infection by not splashing the leaves with water. Try using a soaker hose instead of a sprinkler. Viral diseases can be identified by stunted growth, mottled leafs and deformed foliage. Remove and discard affected plants.

Grow primroses by seed, or divisions taken in early spring just as new leaves come up, or just after flowering. The matt-forming species can be increased by cuttings taken in summer.

Here are a few easy types of primroses to try in your garden.

• Primula veris, Cowslip- Blooms in mid- to late-spring. Clusters of nodding, egg-yolk yellow blossoms on 8 to 10 inch tall plant. Zones 5 to 9.

• Primula vulgare, Common primrose- Native to Britain, Ireland and Europe. Blooms late winter to early spring. 4-inch tall plant. Zones 6 to 9.

• Primula japonica, Candelabra primrose-Blooms in late spring. Flower stalks to 36 inches tall, with tiers of blossoms in white, red, purple or pink. Zones 3 to 9.

• Primula denticulata, Drumstick primrose. Blooms in early spring. Compact balls of lavender to purple flowers atop stalks up to 12 inches tall. Zones 4 to 9.

• Primula obonica, German primrose. Blooms late spring to early summer. Large flowers in shades of pink, red or lavender on 12 inch tall stems. Large leaves. Zones 8 to 10.

• The Primrose hybrids sold in grocery stores and at discount chains are meant to be enjoyed for a short time then discarded. Most often they are unsucessful garden plants. Try some of the above species, which are longer lived plants.